Bhopal, MADHYA PRADESH :
A carrom spot alive at Banne Pahelwan Ki Gali in Itwara
From gossip, rumours, history buff, election campaign to latest trends, in times of AI, Bhopal’s Patiabazi is still a major spot for discussion, debates where many politicians including former President of India Dr. Shankar Dayal Sharma and hockey legend, Aslam Sher Khan cut their teeth on these patias.
Foods served during Patiyabazi
Bhopal :
For 62-year-old businessman Abdullah Bhopali, visiting Iqbal Maidan every evening is akin to a sacred ritual. After a long, tedious day, the maidan lightens his heart and rekindles his mood.
For over 40 years, Abdullah has been a regular at this public space, originally called Khirniwala Maidan, renamed as Iqbal Maidan after the legendary Urdu poet Allamah Iqbal. Iqbal spent six months in Bhopal across four visits before India’s Independence, composing many of his iconic poems here. Once a private leisure courtyard for Bhopal’s Nawabs, Iqbal Maidan, nestled near the Upper Lake in the walled city, stands as a testament to the city’s 300-year-old history.
Every evening, Abdullah settles on a patia—a rectangular stone slab measuring about 4×2 feet—alongside friends, engaging in hours of lively conversation.
Over cups of Namak Wali Chai (salted tea) and cigarettes, these Patias are not bound by time or age. They start off in the late afternoons and go late into the night. Endless discussions covering everything from a hectic work day to politics, and Bhopal’s storied past. They reminisce about the city’s golden era, the unsung bravery of the Nawabs, their soldiers and exchange local gossip.
“Patiyabazi is a mental diet for Bhopalis like us,” says Abdullah. “It’s our primary source of news, political updates, and historical lessons and anecdotes. But administrative actions are weakening this tradition.”
Patiyabazi, is a quintessential Bhopali tradition that traces its roots to the Nawab era. The term patia refers to the stone or brick platforms placed outside tea shops, homes, or public spaces, serving as informal gathering spots.
Gauhar Mahal night.
When the source of entertainment was scarce during the Nawab period, people used to gather outside their houses or public spaces after the dinner, converging on these patias sipping tea, playing chess or carom, and debating over the city’s pressing issues.
Over time, this practice solidified into a cultural cornerstone, becoming a social lifeline for Bhopalis. The tradition of Patiyabazi thrives as a vibrant cultural practice in Bhopal despite the growing urbanization and modernization.
Urdu literature, and books like Shayam Munshi’s Sirf Nakshe Kadam Rah Gaye and others vividly capture the essence of Patiyabazi, chronicling its role as a social institution. In 2015, two short plays were also designed over the age-old tradition by a city play writer Rafi Shabbir that were staged in the city’s Bharat Bhawan.
Bhopal’s Patiabazi is akin to Kolkata’s Roker Add. Older houses across Kolkata’s landscape are attached to the building — a sort of a porch, popularly known as rowak or rok, reserved for adda.
The adda is a gathering of friends and acquaintances for a session of non-stop conversation with topics ranging from day-to-day problems and anecdotes to local or global politics or sports. They indulge in long conversations over endless cups of tea, sometimes coffee, and a few cigarettes. An adda can be indoors or (preferably) outdoors, and beyond the college campus and office, the locations for these addas have evolved over the years.
Like Kolkata’s rowak adda, Iqbal Maidan remains as a vibrant hub for Patiyabazi unlike Chatori Gali, Char Batti Chowk, Jahangirabad, Ibrahimpura and others which didn’t survive with the time of rapid urbanization in the name of smart city.
“After dinner, people flock to these public spaces, spend hours discussing the freedom movement, social issues, and Bhopal’s welfare over tea and cigarette,” says Rafi Shabbir, who wrote two-plays on Patiyabazi.“Sometimes, these patias transformed into mushairas or ghazal ke mahfil.”Every mohalla (neighborhood) in the old city boasts its own patia spot, each with its distinct flavor of discussion. For example, Ibrahimpura’s patia was renowned for spirited debates on politics and hockey, while Maktaba Sharkia’s was a haven for conversations about art, culture, and literature.
Bhopalis enjoying Patiyabazi at Banne Pahelwan Ki Gali around 12 pm
These gatherings have long been more than casual meetups; they’ve shaped Bhopal’s social and political landscape.
Many of Bhopal’s politicians and social activists cut their teeth on these patias, says Rizwan Uddin Ansari, a city historian.
He explained, former President of India Dr. Shankar Dayal Sharma, former MP K.N. Pradhan, Communist Party leader Shakir Ali, and hockey legend, Aslam Sher Khan often frequented Najja Dada ka Patia, engaging in fiery debates over politics and international affairs that drew crowds. The discussions were so influential that Nawabs stationed spies at these patias to gauge public opinion.
“At Najja Dada ka Patia, an intelligence officer was tasked to check conspiracies against the ruler,” says Ansari. “During local elections, candidates would visit these spots to campaign, engaging directly with voters to sway opinions.”
Historian Rizwan recalls a time when a woman wrestler from Haryana visited Bhopal, sparking animated discussions at a patia. “It was a hot topic,” he says, “especially when women’s rights were still a struggle.”
These conversations often transcended gossip, addressing societal shifts and shaping public discourse. Even today, the old city’s streets like Banne Pahelwal Ki Gali in Itwara, Qazi camp, hum with the clatter of carrom boards and chess games, as men gather to keep the tradition alive, sometimes, till dawn.
This tradition, however, is only confined to some pockets of the walled city. Those shifted to new Bhopal, long for it like a 45-year-old political activist Jawaid Beg.
Beg moved to new Bhopal near Airport Road to meet his family’s growing demands. Yet, he drives 10 kilometers to Iqbal Maidan many times a week to partake in this centuries-old ritual. “Although it’s impossible to go to Iqbal Maidan every night because of workload, sitting on the patia, with friends makes me feel alive,” he says. “All my worries vanish.”
The modernization, however, has posed challenges to Patiyabazi. Between 2000 to 2010, the government removed patias from outside homes, citing beautification and encroachment concerns. In the later years, district administration, detached from local traditions, began dispersing crowds from these public spaces after 11 pm labeling Patiyabaaz as nightwalkers. The administration argues that since section 144 CrPC (now Section 163 BNS) is in place, it’s important to disburse the crowd to maintain ‘law and order’ in the city.
Gohar Mhal night.
As a result, the tradition has waned among younger generations, who are drawn to modern distractions like mobiles, games, OTT platforms, social Apps and others getting detached to the city’s tradition and history.
For the younger generation, tea joints are new Patia spots and scooty and bikes become the new Patia.
These spots attract younger Bhopalis, particularly those under 40, who are reimagining the tradition. “Scooty and bikes have become the new patias for the youths,” says Saad Iqbal, a 35-year-old businessman, who runs a dry fruit shop in Jumerati locality of walled city. He sits at a tea joint near Royal Market with friends till late night after closing the shop at 11:30 pm.
For the younger generation, these tea joints offer a space to discuss everything from vacation plans to shopping trips at the nearby market, often while playing mobile games like PUBG. This blend of old and new keeps the spirit of Patiyabazi alive.
At Budhwara Chowk’s patia, 25-year-old car mechanic Bhura Khan unwinds after a grueling workday. “A cup of tea with carrom sets the mood,” he says, surrounded by friends. “The gossip keeps us informed and makes us laugh.”
Gohar Mahal, another popular spot, draws youngsters with its scenic lake views, where they enjoy snacks and tea. Qazi camp, Aishbagh, Bagh Dilkusha are some of the popular spaces for Patiyabazi.
Patiyabazi is more than a pastime; it’s the heartbeat of Bhopal’s community. It bridges generations, from Nawab-era chess matches to modern-day PUBG sessions.
For Bhopalis, patias are more than stone slabs—they are living monuments to Bhopal’s enduring spirit, where stories are shared, friendships are forged, and the city’s soul is kept alive.
source: http://www.muslimmirror.com / Muslim Mirror / Home> Art & Culture> Exclusive Reports / by Kashif Kakvi / September 26th, 2025