Category Archives: Arts, Culture & Entertainment

Looted Tipu riches as global exhibits

KARNATAKA :

The most significant of Tipu’s memories lie at the Scottish National War Museum in the Edinburgh Castle.

Tipu Sultan, the Tiger of Mysore, whose birth anniversary celebrations became a contentious issue recently, is avidly remembered, ironically, through his countless artefacts and personal effects displayed in museums and art galleries in England and Scotland. The soldiers and commanders too fought valiantly for this great warrior king, the only monarch to have died on the battlefield fighting the British.

After Tipu was killed on May 4, 1799, Arthur Wellesley, the future Duke of Wellington,  gave a free hand to the victorious army to pillage Tipu’s palace and arsenals in Srirangapatnam. The excited British soldiers indulged in such  acts of loot and confiscation that there was no one in the army who did not carry  multiple artefacts  as souvenirs and war spoils.Most valuable ones like the swords, ivory goods, pistols, cannons and jewellery were to the turn of the high ranking officers. The remnants of war rockets, Tipu used to the bewilderment of the British, numbering 700, were shipped to England where they were subjected to reverse engineering to unravel the process of making them.The iconic 42 inch sword  that Tipu held on the fateful day of his death and presented to General David Baird  as war trophy, was bought by the now beleaguered liquor baron Vijay Mallya in 2003 at a Sotheby auction for Rs 1.57 crore. It is reported that Mallya also bought several other war items like carved quires, flint lock pistols, cannon and other personal items of Tipu.A finger ring with the word Ram engraved in Devanagari script, recovered from Tipu’s body, was exhibited in the British museum. It is said that the ring was later presented by Wellesley to his niece, Lady Fitzroy Somerset. The gorgeous Tipu’s throne with a gold canopy was ripped out and all its eight large diamond studded tiger heads that formed the front of the throne were shared among the generals.

One of them was presented to Edward Clive (son of Robert Clive), then governor of Madras, is now exhibited in Clive Museum at Powis Castle in Wales. A pair of Tipu’s golden slippers, his glittering tent, a camp cot, swords, walking stick with tiger head etc, are also seen here.

Of all the curious  objects  of  Tipu, the “toy tiger” displayed in the Victoria & Albert Museum, London, is the most important. It is an awesome life-size wooden toy seen in a military uniform. This impressive toy has in its body a mechanical pipe organ hidden and by turning a handle, creates wailing shrieks and a loud roar while the victim’s hand moves up and down in despair.

The design of this toy tiger is said to have been inspired by the death of the son of the Scottish General Sir Hector Munro, a bête noire of Tipu. There are also several items of jewellery taken from Tipu’s palace which are on display in this museum.

In 1999, Edinburgh’s National Museum of Scotland, as a part of the bi-centennial celebrations of Tipu’s death, held a special exhibition in which  a replica of Tipu’s toy tiger was made for the occasion. It continues to be in the museum now.

A significant legacy of Tipu  was the proliferation of paintings and sketches the contemporary artists produced. Due to these paintings, the image of Tipu was entrenched in the collective memory of the British so well that in 1831 when Ram Mohan Roy visited England, he was embarrassed to face hostile booing crowds at many places. As Ram Mohan Roy’s headgear resembled Tipu’s turban, he was mistaken to be a descendant of Tipu Sultan.

Castle’s war museum
The most significant of Tipu’s memories lie at the Scottish National War Museum in the historic Edinburgh Castle. Here are preserved  swords, daggers, war medals and other articles taken from the arsenals at Srirangapatnam. There are numerous ornamental swords belonging to several prominent Scottish army generals who saw action in the Mysore wars.

Swords presented to the generals as souvenirs are also on display. The names, Carnatic, Mysore and Srirangapatnam carved on stones, indicate the importance the Scots bestowed on their combats against Tipu. An armlet of Tipu, found on his body that was presented to David Baird, is also preserved here.

At the concluding ceremony of Edinburgh International Festival (EIF) held annually, a spectacular display of fireworks takes place outside of the castle in commemoration of the Mysore wars. The exquisite Amaravathi sculptures excavated from near Guntur in 1845 by Sir Walter Elliot, now exhibited at the British Museum, and the enigmatic Kohinoor diamond  taken away in 1850 after the Second Sikh war and presented to Queen Victoria, form part of the crown jewels displayed now in the Tower of London. They attract millions of tourists from all over the world annually.

The indiscriminately looted Tipu’s Srirangapatna treasures, now as global exhibits, stand as quintessential reminders of the nature of the British colonial aggrandisement in India.

(The writer is retired professor of History, University of Hyderabad)

source: http://www.deccanherald.com / Deccan Herald / Home> In Perspective / by K S S Seshan / July 12th, 2016

Badi Baoli at Qutb Shahi tombs restored to its full glory

Hyderabad, TELANGANA :

Heritage regained:Work nearing completion at the Badi Baoli with the western wall, which had collapsed in 2013, also fully restored now.— Photo: K.V.S. GIRI
Heritage regained:Work nearing completion at the Badi Baoli with the western wall, which had collapsed in 2013, also fully restored now.— Photo: K.V.S. GIRI

 The 400-year-old step well collects 10 lakh litres of water this rainy season

Among all the structures on the premises of the Qutb Shahi tombs, one of the first to come up near the entrance is the Badi Baoli (step well), built more than 400 years ago by Sultan Qutb-ul-Mulk, the first ruler of the Qutb Shahi dynasty. The huge quadrangle edifice, which looks like anything but a well, has been brought back to life about three years ago after a part of it had collapsed due to heavy rains.

And now, it is the same monsoon that is making the Badi Baoli do what it was meant to do: to collect water for the purpose of irrigation or gardening in the premises. “We have collected one lakh litres of water after it had started raining this year,” said Ratish Nanda, CEO of the Aga Khan Trust for Culture (AKTC), which is currently restoring the Qutb Shahi Tombs.

In 2013, the western wall of the Badi Baoli had collapsed due to heavy rains, and details of the construction remained only on a small portion of the structure. A visit to the old step well now will perhaps bring a smile on the face of any heritage lover. The details have been restored, and the cement on parts of the edifice has also been taken off.

The restoration was also done with the help of archival images from the 1860s, when certain changes were made to the structure during the Asaf Jahi era. “The work is going to finish in a few days, as the lime-plaster is being applied,” mentioned Mr. Nanda.

Collecting Water a part of the restoration plan:

One of the advantages of restoring the Badi Baoli is that the AKTC is utilising the water collected for irrigation and restoration work as well, effectively having to rely lesser on water tankers. “We have created catchment areas for all the six baolis on the premises. Wherever there is a step-well, we built channels to divert rain water directly into it, instead of allowing it to get logged or sucked underground,” explained Mr. Nanda.

Apart from the Badi Baoli, the AKTC has also restored the Hamam (bath) Baoli and the Jamshed Baoli. The other three step-wells in the Qutb Shahi Tombs premises are located in the Eidgah and the Deccan park. They will also be restored at a later stage of the restoration, which is currently in its first phase. Under it, about 30 of the 70-plus heritage structures will be restored by the end of 2017.

The historic necropolis is being restored by the AKTC in partnership with the Department of Archaeology. The project is also being funded by the Dorabji Tata Trust.

source:  http://www.thehindu.com / The Hindu / Home> News> Cities> Hyderabad / by Yunus Y. Lasania / Hyderabad – July 10th, 2016

Raring to go

Bengaluru, KARNATAKA :

Budding artist Alayna Zaid
Budding artist Alayna Zaid

Nine-year-old artist Alayna Zaid, having her maiden show in the city, shows promise

“Imaginarium” is a showcase of art works by a nine-year-old girl. What makes it even more interesting is the variety of medium, the budding artist Alayna Zaid has worked with like glass paint, watercolour, acrylic on canvas, oil on canvas, glue with paint, shaving foam with paint, tissue paper for crating textures. As for the imagery, the fourth standard girl of the Inventure Academy, has borrowed from flora and fauna. A few abstract works are also part of the collection.

At an age when children discover new games everyday, Alayna spent her holidays at home to complete 40 paintings for the exhibition. While Alayna’s mother Uzma Irfan says her work were so good that they decided to put it out in the public domain, the young artist is nonchalant about the development. “I don’t know how it feels. All I know is I like to paint different themes like nature and animals in different textures,” says Alayna.

Alayna was three when her mother noticed her talent. “The same year I put her in informal ‘observe and learn classes’ with Nimmi Ravindran as she was too young. But gradually she started taking to it and she has actively been learning and experimenting with her teacher’s guidance since then,” says Uzma.

Alayna’s passion for colours can be seen in her ‘Psychedelic’ painting in which she has used glue and paint. To depict ‘Snowy Mountains’ on a sunny day she uses shaving foam whereas her ‘Twilight’ has colours literally flowing down the canvas as she had discovered the diluting paint. Allowing it to flow resulted in creating the effect. “I love the textures that come out of paint-knife and chopsticks too”, she says pointing out to her trees and leaves.

Alayna has made 300 paintings till now but what the little girl is particularly excited about is ‘Mandala’ art work. Recently finished in school, she used rice and a variety of seeds for which she received appreciation from her teachers.

Alayna Zaid’s works will be on display at Sublime Galleria till August 2

source: http://www.thehindu.com / The Hindu / Home> Features> Metroplus / Ranjani Govind / Bengaluru – July 09th, 2016

M J Akbar: From being a Congress MP to Modi’s minister

Madhya Pradesh / NEW DELHI :

New Delhi :

M J Akbar’s debut as a minister caps a remarkable political turnaround for the journalist and author who made a dashing foray into politics as a Congress MP in 1989, thanks to his proximity to the then Prime Minister Rajiv Gandhi, before a long spell in wilderness.

65-year-old Akbar, who was recently elected to Rajya Sabha from Madhya Pradesh, is seen as an articulate and modern Muslim voice in BJP who can also be trusted to defend it at times on the strident Hindutva pitch with his eloquent evocation of Modi’s developmental agenda.

A party spokesperson, he has often spoken on the government’s foreign policies.

An eminent editor and author of several well-received books, including a biography of Jawaharlal Nehru, he debuted in politics in 80s as he came close to the then Prime Minister Rajiv Gandhi and wielded considerable influence.

He contested Lok Sabha election in 1989 from Kishanganj in Bihar and won but Congress lost badly.

He drifted apart from the party after Gandhi’s death in 1991 and he soon returned to full time journalism.

Though he was critical of Modi, the then Gujarat Chief Minister, following 2002 riots, he gradually came closer to the saffron party as he assailed the Gandhi family over its leadership of Congress.

BJP expects that Akbar will provide it what the party has often lacked — an eloquent English-speaking Muslim voice.

source:  http://www.newindianexpress.com / The New Indian Express / Home> Nation / PTI / July 05th, 2016

Lucknow’s Aishbagh Eidgah witnesses history, women offer Namaz on Eid

Lucknow, UTTAR PRADESH :

Lucknow :

For Atiya Mushtaq, a principal in a Lucknow-based madarsa, July 7, 2016 or 7/7 would certainly go down as a special day in her life, as for the first time she got an opportunity to offer Namaz on the day of Eid-ul-Fitr at the historic Aishbagh Eidgah. A separate provision was made for the women to offer the Namaz. While the men offered their Namaz on the grounds of Eidgah, provision for women to offer Namaz was made at the Tayyab Hall.

Reacting on her being a part of the rare occasion, Atiya, said, “It really gave me a special feeling after I offered the Eid Namaz. It was definitely a special moment in my life, and I would treasure it.” She further expressed hope that this unique and positive trend continues in the future as well.

Fariah Saad, a housewife too was excited after offering the Namaz. She said, “We had offered Namaz in various mosques across the world. But, for the first time, I got such an opportunity in India, and I am proud to be a part of it.” She further stated that this historic move would go a long way in sending a positive message about equality of males and females in Islam.

Lucknow also made history, when on the occasion of last Eid-ul-Zuha (September 25, 2015), the historic Sibtainabad Imambara witnessed a unique citizen-driven initiative called ‘Shoulder to Shoulder’ (S2S) where a joint Shia-Sunni Namaz was performed to spread the message of universal brotherhood. As per mutual agreement, Sunni Imam Maulana Shehzad led the prayer at the Shia monument and everybody followed as per their individual manner, hands folded or otherwise. Shia cleric Maulana Kalbe Sadiq had then said, “It is a welcome move that both sects are standing together to pray and this should be sustained and nurtured.”

The weather too played a positive role, as women along with their family members were seen entering the gate and then moving to Tayyab Hall to offer Namaz. Speaking to reporters after the Eid celebrations were over, Imam of Eidgah Khalid Rasheed Firangi Mahali said, “We are of the opinion that both men and women are equal, and hence for the first time, provision was made for women to offer Namaz at the Eidgah.” He further stated that this would certainly send a positive message in the society that women are at par with their male counterparts.
Greeting the people who had gathered at the Aishbagh Eidgah on this occasion, chief minister Akhilesh Yadav, said, “I extend my best wishes to people of the state on the occasion of Eid-ul-Fitr. The entire country is celebrating Eid and all sections of the society are celebrating the festival. Eid symbolises brotherhood, bonhomie and I hope that Eid would also generate love among people.”

UP Governor Ram Naik while addressing the people said, “Mohammed Sahab’s message was to spread brotherhood. His teachings are relevant even today throughout the world and also in other religions.” He further stated that a true Muslim is concerned about the welfare of his neighbours, society, fellow citizens and the country. “Terrorism is a global problem, and I just came to know about a second terror attack in Bangladesh’s capital city of Dhaka,” Naik said. He urged the audience to take pledge to spread love and also hoped for good rains. The governor also exuded confidence that UP would become “Uttam Pradesh”.

source: http://www.timesofindia.indiatimes.com / The Times of India / News Home> City> Lucknow / Arunav Sinha / TNN / July 07th, 2016

Over a cup of evening tea : A brush with Royalty recollected

Mysuru, KARNATAKA :

Prof M. J. Sadiq with the silver tray. Detailing on the silver tray
Prof M. J. Sadiq with the silver tray. Detailing on the silver tray

by Dr. K. Javeed Nayeem

Mysuru :

Today I’m writing this article about Royal weddings of long ago from a place that seems like it has been caught in a weird time warp. I say this because our Coffee Estate where I am on a holiday right now has been without a working telephone landline for the past three months. The best mobile phones too just become expensive paperweights, unable to serve their intended purpose. Although privileged to be located amid lush sylvan surroundings in the midst of the best that nature has to offer, most estates like ours are tucked in the nooks and crannies of the hills where mobile signals simply fail to trickle through. Electricity too is a commodity that cannot be had for the asking just because you have a meter and a line hooked to an electric pole.

Nobody who is entrusted with the responsibility of keeping these facilities working has been able to summon the will or the sense of commitment to do anything about it despite all the hue and cry raised by subscribers who are cut off from a civilisation that thrives on constant wireless connectivity and only keeps complaining constantly of insufficient speed! After I complete this article I’ll have to drive ten kilometres with my laptop to the nearest village where a sufficiently strong mobile signal becomes available for me to mail it to the SOM office.

This business too is not as simple as it seems. I’ll have to wait patiently in my car and keep a watch on the signal strength before pressing the send button precisely at the right moment. It’s a little like skeet shooting, thankfully a sport at which I happen to be pretty good! Well, going back just a little bit from the time zone where I am now standing I would like to draw your attention to how things were in the forties in Royal Mysore.

Girija Madhavan, a multi-talented lady who sometimes takes readers down the memory lane with her nostalgic writings and paintings, recently talked of the way Royal weddings used to be held (SOM dated 20th June, 2016). She recalled how her late father M. Venkatesh used to attend the Durbars of the Maharaja and she has also sent a picture of the silver salver on which the wedding invitations used to be placed before being handed over to the VIP invitees. My late maternal grandfather Alhaj M. Khaleelur Rahman, then a prosperous merchant on Ashoka Road, was a person who was very close to the Royal family and who used to be invited to Dasara Durbars and all the Royal weddings and other functions that used to take place during his time. His son, Prof. M.J. Sadiq, my maternal uncle, who used to teach Zoology at St. Philomena’s College, still has in his possession the salver on which his father received the invitation to the weddings of the two sisters of the Maharaja held in the year 1941.

Weighing exactly 350gms and made of 97% pure silver by C. Krishnaiah Chetty and Sons of Bangalore, its purity and paternity are stamped on the reverse. It is very similar to the one in possession of Girija Madhavan although slightly different in shape. Incidentally, my uncle, Prof. Sadiq is a very meticulous person who is a sort of chronicler of all events in our family besides being the curator and caretaker of the family heirlooms. If you want to know what the cost of onions or sugar or rice used to be in any given year ever since he started wielding a pen probably in the mid-forties, he will turn the pages of his record books and give you the exact figures in less time than it takes for the Google search engine to do the job!

He has also preserved all the invitation cards of all the weddings that have taken place in the family ever since he was a little boy. Incidentally, he found a mention in Star of Mysore last week for being the first person to suggest in a letter to the editor three and a half decades ago that the Hardinge Circle would be a good place to install the statue of H. H. Sri. Jayachamaraja Wadiyar.

R. Kasturi Raj Chetty, who became the eighth Vice-Chancellor of the Mysore University (1948-50), used to be very close friend of my grandfather and the two would attend most public functions together including the ones at the Palace. The wife of the VC for whom my late grandmother, Zaibunnissa was a favourite friend, would come in a separate chauffeur driven car to pick up my grandmother on her way to attend such events. It appears the two ladies even used to do their shopping for silk saris together. It certainly must have seemed very unusual at that time for a lady from a tradition bound Muslim household to be seen socialising as she did when most of her counterparts led a home-bound existence. ‘Good old Days’ indeed!

e-mail: kjnmysore@rediffmail.com

source: http://www.starofmysore.com / Star of Mysore /  Home> Feature Articles / July 08th, 2016

Keeping alive a tradition that’s on the wane

Hyderabad, TELANGANA :

Without a miss:Muhammad Jaffer has been announcing Ramzan fasting time for the past 31 years.— Photo: Serish Nanisetti
Without a miss:Muhammad Jaffer has been announcing Ramzan fasting time for the past 31 years.— Photo: Serish Nanisetti

Muhammad Jaffer cycles through the streets of Santoshnagar beating his drum announcing the beginning of Ramzan fast

He is a town crier with a difference. Under the halogen streetlight glow at 3.30 a.m., Muhammad Jaffer’s voice booms over the hailer in Santoshnagar, Mehdipatnam followed by banging of drum announcing the beginning of Ramzan fast for the day. The whirring fan, the noisy AC and closed doors are no impediment, as folks scramble to prepare lunch before the 16-hour fast. Some have the food ready and just have to brush and eat sehri.

“This is a tradition from the beginning of Islam. Now people have alarm clocks, but I like to hear his sing-song voice asking people to wake up for food and prayer,” says Aziz Ahmed, a businessman. “Earlier, there were sehri-walahs doing this, but now the numbers have declined,” says Mr. Aziz, recalling the time when the family used to live in Hussainialam in the old city, 40 years ago.

It is difficult to catch Mr. Jaffer in the morning as he briskly cycles through the streets of Santoshnagar to Rethibowli in Mehdipatnam between 2 a.m. and 3.30 a.m. banging the drum mounted on the handlebar of the cycle and singing the words that are difficult to grasp. “I have been doing this for the past 31 years. I began in 1983 or 1984 when I was 14 and my father Muhammad Qureshi passed away. I am continuing his legacy. Then I used a tin drum which I used to bang, shout and walk through these same streets,” says Mr. Jaffer, on a day when he has come to collect money from grateful people whom he has rendered this service to.

“Earlier, people used to give foodgrains. Now they give clothes, grains as well as money,” informs Mr. Aziz.

“There was a time when we used to meet at 1 a.m. to drink tea and have pan before heading out to make these calls. We were more than a few dozen. But now, there are about 10 in this part of the city and I think the whole of Hyderabad may have about 50,” he guesses.

“No. My children will not follow this profession. They are all young and they want to study and work,” says Mr. Jaffer, who supplies lime to restaurants and function halls during the rest of the year.

In these days of niche apps that show the direction of qibla, exact time of prayer, and cell phone alarms, Muhammad Jaffer is a happy anachronism which Hyderabad can be proud of.

source: http://www.thehindu.com / The Hindu / Home> News> Cities> Hyderabad / by Serish Nanisetti / Hyderabad – July 06th, 2016

Ishaq Madina: A place of Hindu-Muslim amity

Visakhapatnam, ANDHRA PRADESH :

Visakhapatnam:

A seat of secularism, Ishaq Madina Dargah is known to celebrate Ramzan and Ram Navami in the same premises.

Also referred to as the Sheikh Ali Ishaq Madina Rehmatullah Dargah, this place of worship is named after a Muslim sufi saint who arrived in Visakhapatnam from Madina in Arabia along with his followers. Though the exact date of the dargah is not known, it gained prominence during the Mughul rule and was granted the Inam (land) of Yerrada and Devada villages and other properties in Vizag in 1706. Locals, however, claim that the Dargah is much older and has been observing the holy month of Ramzan for more than four centuries.

According to Mohiddin Basha, a dargah trustee, “Ramzan has been observed for at least four hundred years now. Recently, archaeological experts declared that the dargah could actually date back further to another two centuries at least”

“Hindus and Muslims alike come to pay their respects to the sufi saint Sheikh Ali Rehmatullah. In fact, the first Sepoy Mutiny to take place in India in 1780s was launched after the sepoys took their blessings from the dargah before going to battle against the British,” Basha said. During Ramzan, the dargah keeps the kitchen open to people from all faiths.

Hindu festivals such as Sri Ram Navami and Janmashtami are also celebrated at the dargah with great pomp. K Ramana Murthy, a resident of Sivalayam Stree, said, “The dargah symbolises the unity in the concept of God and because of it’s presence, there has never been a case of Hindu-Muslim rivalry in this city. We live as brothers and respect each others traditions.”

History buff BS Mahesh said, “The reason why Hindus and Muslims had no conflict of interests in Visakhapatnam is partly because most of the Muslims here were traders and sea farers, while the Hindus were ship builders and metal smiths. The give and take relationship between the two communities was harmosnised by the presence of the dargah. Many trustees of the dargah and some of the famous 19th century Muslim scholars from Vizag such as Chisti Saheb were scholars in Sanskrit and Telugu as well.”

In a bid to bring the dargah to the notice of the people, the trustees intend to request the state government to release some of its properties that were forcible occupied and be recognised as one of the oldest places in AP where Ramzan has been celebrated by both Muslims and Hindus.

source: http://www.timesofindia.indiatimes.com / The Times of India / News Home> City> Visakhapatnam / TNN / July 06th, 2016

Eid Dawoodi Bohra style is to promote zero wastage of food

Visakhapatnam, ANDHRA PRADESH :

Visakhapatnam:

While the Muslim community across the country will celebrate Eid-ul-Fitr on Thursday, the Dawoodi Bohra community residing in upscale Mubarak Colony of Port City observed the festival on Tuesday after 30 days of fasting by offering prayers and namaaz at the Mohammadi Masjid in Yendada.

Around 650 people took part in a community breakfast after the prayers. A unique feature of their meal is everyone, irrespective of social status, eats from huge thalis as it fosters the spirit of harmony and promotes economic justice. Another reason for such a practice is to avoid wastage of food.

“Today’s Eid-special breakfast consisted of sheer khorma (a sweet dish made of dry fruits, milk and sewaiyya), bread, kheema, vadas and chutney. Eight people at a time can sit together to eat from a thali. For lunch and dinner too, the same system would be followed. Special items like biryani and karri chawal was prepared in our community kitchen today,” said Adnan Sabuwala, a member of the Dawoodi Bohra community.

A good initiative of the community is preventing wastage of food. “Whatever food remains after consumption by our members would be distributed among the poor villagers in the surrounding areas. If there’s some food or vegetables that’s not in a state good enough for consumption by people, we go to some cattle or animal shed and with permission of the owners, offer them to the animals,” said Mulla Abhizer Madraswala, secretary of Anjuman-e-badri, a committee organisation that looks into the accounts and logistics.”

source: http://www.timesofindia.indiatimes.com / The Times of India / News Home> City> Visakhapatnam / TNN / July 06th, 2016

Where the streets never sleep

Chennai, TAMIL NADU :

Triplicane comes alive during the holy month of Ramzan. AKILA KANNADASAN strolls through its many lanes, taking in its sights, sounds and flavours

Mohammad Fazluddin looks at the net of silver beads he’s woven with satisfaction. It is suspended on a nail at Meraj Gul Mahal, a craft shop the size of a telephone booth, located in a by-lane opposite the Big Mosque on Triplicane High Road. The beads will form the base for a sultani sehra, an accessory that will drop like a curtain over a groom’s face. The 80-year-old has been making such essentials for Muslim weddings for decades. Despite his age, he opens the shutters of his little shop every day. For, orders flow during the month of Ramzan, at the end of which the wedding season begins.

Triplicane reflects Fazluddin’s spirit — hope and the prospect of a new beginning. Shoppers with their purses full, thanks to generous friends and family; shop-keepers whose cash counters are filling by the hour; restaurateurs whose evening specials sell like hot cakes… everyone is happy. “Ramzan is when women buy new burqas,” says Shanaz Akthar of Sana Burqa House. “Even those who cannot afford them save up for new ones.” The new arrivals this year are double-coloured and umbrella-cut burqas.

At Triplicane high road / Photo: Shaju John
At Triplicane high road / Photo: Shaju John

The shops that sell wedding merchandise are filled with laughter and friendly chatter. At Chand Basha, Kairoon shops for stone-studded bangles for her daughter, who is to be married. The shop has been around for over 80 years, and is among the more popular in the area. Bottles of beads and sequins and racks of red-and-gold dupattas and hand fans line the shop. How has business been, we ask Basha, when Kairoon cuts in: “Of course it’s good. Just look at the man. He’s getting plumper every year,” and laughs. As we step out, Zakira Begum waves at us with a grin from across the road. It’s a shame if you take pride in knowing Triplicane well but don’t know Zakira. The smiling lady sits at the same spot a few blocks from the Big Mosque with tubs bearing pale-white circles of rumani semiya every year during Ramzan. She makes the semiya at her house in Royapettah and has been selling it for 40 years. Several other men and women are also seated on the pavement selling semiya.

The Big Mosque nearby bustles with men who walk in prayerfully to break their fast with the nombu kanji served inside. If there’s one thing that’s as important as the fragrant kanji, it’s the vadai. For many, it’s a tradition to have the kanji with a vadai or two. Waheeda Begum and her mother have been making vadais for the hundreds of people who come to the mosque.

Seated at the gate, Waheeda slides in circles of batter into a vat of hot oil, while her mother extracts them once they are cooked a crispy brown. Her medhu vadais are legendary; so are the muttai bondas.

Triplicane High Road and Dr. Besant Road play host to several vadai sellers during this season. With women at the helm, these pushcarts do brisk business. Then, there are the many biryani restaurants that whip up evening specialties. SHB Biryani, famous for its mutton biryani, sells a range of deep-fried delicacies, such as mutton and chicken cutlets, chicken roti, a dish made of spicy minced chicken masala wrapped in a thin maida roti, chicken samosas, chicken rolls… all of which disappear the moment they reach the counter. Men stop by to buy them for their fasting families.

Ramzan special snacks displayed at SHB Biryani on Triplicane high road,/ Photo: Shaju John
Ramzan special snacks displayed at SHB Biryani on Triplicane high road,/ Photo: Shaju John

But, what’s Ramzan without Afreen Juice and Tea Shop’s chicken samosa? It’s almost a sin to miss the crumbly, greasy samosa with a chunky chicken filling. Haleem, a Hyderabad specialty, is not as common as vadai and biryani in Triplicane. Afreen stocks Pista House’s haleem. Abdul Rahman, who works in the IT sector, has brought Sheik Hafiz, a haleem specialist from Hyderabad, to make the delicacy and sell it at a makeshift stall opposite the Ameerunnisa Begum Sahiba Mosque near Zam Bazaar. “We supply to several restaurants in the city,” says Abdul.

As dusk falls and the muezzin calls for prayer, the streets of Triplicane grind to a halt. But it lasts just a moment. The rhythm picks up again, and goes on and on.

Triplicane never sleeps.

source: http://www.thehindu.com / The Hindu / Home> Features> Metroplus> Society / by Akila Kannadasan / Chennai  – July 04th, 2016