BOOK Monuments of Gulbarga is a book that captures ancient art and architecture through photographs.

Domes, tombs, minars , forts, moats and off-course masjids . Are you thinking of Delhi? Why travel thousands of kilometres to experience the reminiscences of the sultanate? Prefer going to Gulbarga, a night’s journey from Bangalore. Instead, feel every bit of Gulbarga’s history by just turning the pages of a book. “Monuments of Gulbarga, Treasure House of Islamic Architecture”, a photo-book authored by Mr. Mohammed Ayazuddin Patel gives you this experience.

Gulbarga, now a district headquarters in northern Karnataka, was the capital city of Bahamani Sultanate for two centuries. It was at its zenith in the 15{+t}{+h}century and was home to hundreds of monuments. The Sultanate was founded by Bahaman Shah or Allauddin Hasan Gangu. He shifted the capital from Daulatabad in the present-day Maharashtra to Gulbarga and laid the foundation for a magnificent city. The other great kings of the dynasty were Mohammed Shah and Mujahid Shah.

Resembles Spain`s Mezquita

The book provides a pictorial account of the history of the Bahamani kingdom. Beginning with a nostalgic photo of a tomb of Allauddin Hasan Gangu Bahamani, the founder of the dynasty, the book vividly portrays the beautiful Gulbarga fort, its ramparts, fine arches and abutments. The Jama Masjid, built within the fort, resembles the Great Mosque of Cordova (Mezquita) in Spain with grand corridors and lofty entrance. Various pictures of Shahi Jama masjid in the book unfurl a tableau in front of the onlooker. This masjid located in Shahbazaar was constructed for the members of the royal family. ‘It has a unique architectural style of Mughals and the Persian style’, the book says.

The mausoleums of Mujahid Shah, Daud Shah, Ghiyat-al-din Shah, and Shams-al-din resemble that of Hasan Gangu. Unique is the Tomb of Feroz Shah, with intricate jalis and twin domes. The pictures of 800-year-old Holkonda fort capture the Islamic culture and the simplicity of Tughlaq style aptly. This fort houses an idgah and a Dargah of Hazarath Mohamad Mashaq Sahib, a Sufi saint believed to have come to Gulbarga at the request of Bahamani Sultans.

Gulbarga is famous for the tombs of Sufi saints and Pirs . Noted among them is Dargah of Khaja Bande Nawaz Gesudaraz, built by Mohammad Shah Bahamani. It has a Bijapuri arch built by Afzal Khan, army general of the Ailshahis. Other Sufi tombs being Dargah Khabullah Hussaini with beautiful paintings and calligraphy, Dargah Hazarath Kamal-e-Mujarrad and Dargah Hazarath Shaik Sirajuddin Junaidi.

Majestic, but dilapidated is the Ferozabad fort, built by Feroze Shah Bahamani. He was known for his flair for fine-arts and architecture. This fort, on the banks of Bheema river, encompasses a huge mosque, Tosha khana , and palacial buildings. In spite of its beauty and historical significance, this fort is ill-maintained. Arrays of dung cakes adorn the walls of the sepulchral edifices. Weed-infested mahals are on the verge of collapse due to vagaries of nature. Crumbling structures like Kanchini Mahal, once magnificent and awe-inspiring narrate a story of wanton negligence.

The Chor Gumbad with floral designs, Chand Bibi Gumbad or Kali Gumbad with exquisite Chajjas andJalis , Upli Gumbad – incomplete, yet beautiful, the utterly neglected tomb of Jaccha Bibi, the Siddi Ambar Gumbad with a rectangular porch, are only a few identified among tens of such monuments wailing for attention.

Water conservation

The photos of Hirapur form an interesting set. Hirapur, a suburb of Gulbarga has Ibrahim Adil Shahi Jama Masjid, built in black stone decorated with immaculate designs.

The town has wells, embedded with finely crafted staircases, jharokas and of all, ingenious technology of water conservation to avoid excessive evaporation in soaring temperatures. The wells are still seen as an evidence of splendour, but grossly uncared for.

Strewn inside the fort and atop the bastions are numerous canons, cast in brass and other alloys, weighing several tons, flaunting an intimidating appearance. Famous among these canons is Baragazi Toop atop the Burj in the fort.

Gulbarga is dotted with tombs and mausoleums lost in history, beckoning the curious eyes with their regality. This book displays a tableau of medieval Islamic culture and gives a splendid account of the forgotten monuments. The author also gives an account of Hindu and Jain monuments and pilgrim centres. Patel dedicates quite a bit to the revered Sharanabasaveshwara Temple, Sannati Chandralamba Temple, Ganagapura Dattatreya Temple, and Mallinatha Basadi at Malkhed, but, there is no reference to the nearly 700 year-old-shrine of the Madhwa saint Jayateertha on the banks of river Kagina at Malkhed, a major pilgrim centre.

Patel, a national award winner, also records Aiwan-e-shahi, Osmania Intermediate College, MSK Mills established in 1884 by the Nizams. He is President of National Graduate Art and Photographers Association.

TAMRAPARNI R. RAGHAVENDRA

source: http://www.thehindu.com / The Hindu / Home> Features> Friday Review / by Tamraparni S. Raghavendra / March 28th, 2014