INDIA :

From rose syrup to mango panna, Indian Muslims continue the Mughal tradition of crafting cooling summer drinks originally developed by royal physicians.

New Delhi :

Muslims in India proudly carry forward the centuries-old tradition of crafting refreshing drinks that originated in the Mughal era, a time when royal physicians invented syrups not only for their enduring taste but also for immense health benefits.

Salma Hussain, a researcher who has studied Mughal food and drink habits for over fifty years, explained: “Most of the drinks were invented by the royal physicians, who sometimes prepared drinks for medicinal purposes and sometimes for a refreshing taste, and they were very popular.”

She shared how the art of making these drinks flourished under royal patronage, especially during the reign of Empress Noor Jahan, whose influence in the royal kitchen brought many innovations. “Noor Jahan had creative talent. Under her leadership, excellent syrups were developed. The food was also good, tasty. She especially supervised the royal kitchen,” she told Clarion India recently.

Salma recalled an interesting anecdote from the Mughal court: “Once Queen Noor Jahan was strolling in the garden. Rose flowers were in full bloom. Noor Jahan’s mother, Ismat Ara Begum, used to make perfumes from these flowers. Noor Jahan called the royal physician and said many medicines were made from flowers; why cannot a syrup be extracted from the roses? ‘Many people drink in the name of medicine, but you should make something that will relieve us from the heat and be refreshing, and we will also enjoy it.’”

This simple request from the queen gave birth to the now-famous rose syrup, a cooling drink cherished across the Indian subcontinent to this day.

According to Salma, syrups were not limited to rose alone. “Syrups started to be made from roots, like khus syrup; Panna from mango. Similarly, vine syrup came up. Pomegranate syrup was made by cooking sour and ripe fruit, both said to be very beneficial for the skin,” she said. These drinks were especially popular among the royals, famous for their passion for beauty and health.

Salma further highlighted how Indian Muslims and Mughal royalty took special care to combat the intense Indian heat. “The heat in India was extreme, like today’s heat. Kings also used to cool drinks. Emperor Akbar started ordering ice from the mountains.”

The knowledge of cooling drinks extended to using yoghurt, lemon, and various salts to make beverages like shikanji and lassi, which remain popular today. 

“Rose syrup was made from flowers, custard from custard. Jamun syrup was made from fruits, vine syrup was made from mango syrup. Yoghurt was used a lot then. We learned how to make raita from it. They used to cool the yoghurt or mix it in water and make a drink,” she said.

She also pointed to the influence of neighbouring cultures: “A syrup came from Turkey, Aryan, which is the buttermilk we drink today. Almonds were used to make a lot of syrups. It is said that in Iran, almonds were put in hot water and savoured.”

Salma stressed the importance of these drinks beyond refreshment. “There are some unsubstantiated stories about drinks, but all of them seem appropriate, such as the first among the sages who made syrup; his name was Fitha Ghoras. Sage Fitha Ghoras was the first to give a medicinal drink the form of a syrup, like a decoction, etc. Over time, the trade in syrup gradually started and all kinds of syrups started being made.”

She also mentioned that in 1906, Hakim Abdul Majeed (founder of Hamdard) made the spirit-enhancing syrup. The same refreshing syrup is still alive, and we drink it to relieve the heat.

The purity and quality of ingredients were also important to the Mughals. Salma explained: “The water mixed in the syrup was from the Ganges, although the Yamuna River was closer to Delhi. Its water was not used because of the belief that it caused diseases.”

Water management was taken seriously: “The Mughals used to inspect water tanks. Special officers were assigned to procure and preserve the Ganges water.” 

This careful tradition of preserving royal recipes and using pure ingredients continues in India’s Muslim communities, who keep the memory of Mughal cuisine alive through generations.

Local historian Ahmed Khan commented, “These drinks are not just a part of our culture, they connect us to our glorious past. They remind us of the wisdom of our ancestors and the care they took in making life enjoyable and healthy.”

As the summer sun blazes, families across the subcontinent continue to enjoy these time-honoured drinks, a tribute to the enduring legacy of the Mughal era and the Indian Muslim custodians who have preserved these traditions.

source: http://www.clarionindia.net / Clarion India / Home> Editor’s Pick> Indian Muslims / by Mohammed Bin Ismail / May 26th, 2025