Hyderabad, TELANGANA :

Paigah decendent Faiz Khan with mother Begum Tahira Sirajuddin Khan, wife Nida Fatima Khan, sons Dr. Mohammed Faraaz Khan and Mohammed Kamil Khan

A visit to the scion of the Paigah family and the great-great-grandson of H.E. Nawab Sir Vicar- Ul-Umara Bahadur, Amir-e-Paigah and former Prime Minister of erstwhile Hyderabad state M A Faiz Khan grew up seeing their family as ardent patrons of homegrown textiles, superior garments, and spectacular gems even as history is witness to the global influence of Indian Prince and Princesses.

He says that a visit to Hyderabad’s Salarjung Museum is an exciting part of a scholar’s life, it becomes more meaningful and engaging to realize that the museum itself is an astounding part of history for those researching elite Indian menswear. A visit to his house can easily get one an insight into the Nizam and Paigah family pictures which gives one a peek into the refined taste of the family and made the family stand out in the pages of history.

Faiz Khan says, “India boasts of a rich tapestry of cultural diversity, each thread intricately woven into the fabric of its magnificent royal heritage but the royal families have since long been the custodians of not just history and tradition but also of opulent style and regal elegance.

“Their grandeur, opulence, and penchant for fashion continue to inspire modern-day designers, setting the stage for some stupendous ensembles that blend the allure of the past with contemporary flair.”

Scion of Paigah Mohammed Abul Faiz Khan wearing a sherwani of his great great grandfather H.E. Nawab Sir Vicar-ul-Umara Bahadur, the fifth Amir of Paigah   

He says that the Dress and fashion during the era of the Nizams and the Paigahs included ‘angrakhas’, ‘neema’ and ‘jama’. During the last quarter of the 19th century the ‘achkan’, a fitted cape, and ‘angrakha’ developed with a few improvements into the sherwani which extended slightly below the knee and had four pockets, two upper and two on the sides, and seven buttons in front.

He said that the royals paid homage to the grandeur of their dynasty through their attire. Sherwanis were crafted from rich and regal fabrics like brocade, silk, and velvet which boasted of works like Karchobi, a kind of raised metallic thread embroidery, or Kimkhab a kind of brocade woven with silk and gold or silver threads sometimes set in precious stones too. Gold and silver metals were used in surface ornamentation. Even the weft yarns are said to be of gold and silver wire in himru, mashru and brocade fabrics.

These sherwanis reminiscent of historical figures like the 6th Nizam H.H. Nawab Mir Mahboob Ali Khan or the Paigahs were characterized by intricate embroidery and elaborate embellishments creating an aura of regal elegance. The ‘sherwani’ became very popular among all the public in Hyderabad during the rule of Nizam VI and Nizam VII during the first half of the 20th century. It used to be worn with ‘dastar’ (headgear). The Zari work the timeless elegance and regal grandeur of the noble including the Paigahs added a touch of luxury and opulence.

The colour palettes were inspired by the grandeur of the Nizam’s Palace or the Chowmohalla Palace the first official palace of the Nizam where darbars were held and dignitaries received and from where the administrative offices of the Nizam functioned, which included deep vibrant colours like rich maroon, royal blue and emerald green which symbolized grandeur and elegance then. 

Faiz Khan says that the safa an important component of the royal’s attire added a touch of grandeur and lush. Intricately draped, it complemented the colour scheme of the ensemble and featured ornate broaches, echoing the meticulous elegance of the royal era then. Traditional pearls or jewelry including head broaches, often adorned with precious and semi-precious stones evoked the splendor celebrated by royalty and nobility.

Nida Fatima Khan Granddaughter of Major General Nawab Khusru Jung Bahadur CIE married to Faiz Khan of Paigah is wearing a Chowhashya/ Khafa Dupatta and traditional Jewelry.

Footwear like Mojris or juthis showcased elaborate embroidery and designs These designs continue to embrace these elements by grooms honouring the regal legacy of the then royals and embodying the same style during their weddings even today.

The  Jama  ‘angrakhas’, ‘neema’ the Fez caps and even the head gears known as  Dastaar or the Rumi topi have been taken over by the Western attire for day-to-day dressing. Though Sherwani continues to be  still popular and worn with a loose ankle-length  pyjama  or a churidar (legging-like) during festive occasions and Friday prayers sadly it  is no longer the power dressing of the 19th century

The Paigah grooms inspired by the then-historical figures adorned themselves with elaborate Polki jewellery head ornament, bajuband, armlets all featuring precious gemstones, which accentuated their royal allure The vibrant colour palette exuded grandeur with bright ruby reds, deep blues, and rich greens transforming grooms into timeless symbols of regal elegance.

The Kimkhab choga the achkans woven in luxury was a different ball game for these men.    

Although in possession of immense wealth, it was their refined taste that made some of this Indian royalty and nobility stand out in the pages of history. While the Nizam was the more familiar figure who immediately comes to mind, the Paigahs and their predecessors like Faiz were equally proficient. Faiz Khan adds that the royals were also instrumental in deliberately straying from conventional style norms and introducing it to the women of Indian society at a time when restrictive customs such as the pardah system existed. Here we talk of the cohesive picture of Princess Durru Shehvar, Princess Niloufer, H.E.Lady Vicar –Ul-Umara their iconic style, and how it garnered the attention of designers, legacy brands, and publications from all over the world.

He says that the contribution of the Nizams to textiles is especially noteworthy as he was passionate about good clothes jewellery and delicacies. Nizam Mir Mahboob Ali Khan to store his large collections of clothes built a 240 feet long wardrobe at Purani Haveli Hyderabad in the hallway on either side it had 133 built-in cupboards to accommodate his large collections of clothes shoes, headgear, hats, and accessories. 

Today the legacy of the Nizam and the Paigah royals lives on the fashion choices of modern brides and grooms. Inspired by the timeless style of their ancestors, modern brides opt for gharara, saris  Khada Dupatta and sharara that pay homage to the intricate embroidery in zardozi gotta patti work.

The safa reminiscent of the ornate turbans complete their royal look. Traditional leather jootis often in coordinating colours, offer a touch of authenticity making the ensemble a bridge between the past and present.

source: http://www.awazthevoice.in / Awaz, The Voice / Home> Story / by Raja Chotrani / January 05th, 2025